Formerly: THIS RESTAURANT HAS CLOSED.

Sometimes you need more than just steak and potatoes. That's the philosophy of Avenue M co-owner John Merlo. "We started as a contemporary American steakhouse. And that's food that I like to eat and my partners like to eat," he said of the River West steakhouse's chef and menu changes. "But sometimes that type of menu lacks a little bit of flare."

Not that it ever was just a meat and tater joint. The place is 9,000 square-feet, dressed in 30-foot ceilings, balconies and a be-scenery patio crawling in ivy, high heels and suits, par for the owners' nightlife elite resumes – places like Bacchus, Circus and Green Room.

But Merlo assures the kitchen is what is giving Avenue M its longevity, citing the departure of head chef Daniel Kelly, with the addition of the more seafood-minded Mariano Aguirre, who’s made the joint’s miso-glazed Chilean Sea Bass ($30) a menu catch phrase. "Mariano's much better with fish. It's freakish how good he is," says Merlo, pointing out the chef's maki and sashimi skills.

Steak and chops still hold strong, boasting Gibson’s-worthy cuts of Kansas City strips, filet mignons and racks of lamb. Just expect to account for atmosphere, as part of their upper-$30s price caps.

Same goes for wine, with a handful of options under their 100-plus list dipping below $40/bottle and $10/glass, which is why a very lounge-friendly bar menu has been put to use, offering chicken hoagies, crab cakes and Neapolitan-style pizzas for a little over $10 each.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul